Monday 21 August 2023

Holiday Tour Part 4 : Ligny and Waterloo

Even If you aren’t, I’ll be glad to get this 4th and fInal post of our holiday recorded on the blog. We travelled in the last couple of days SW from Maastricht. Along the River Meuse. Our first stop was at the Citadel at Huy. One of several huge forts along the Meuse the hill it is located on has been fortified since around 900 AD and possibly before then. Rebuilt and destroyed several times the current fort was constructed around 1818 when this part of Belgium was Dutch.
It has an imposing position and a currently broken cable car, although it has a lot of steps to get to the top when we looked back at the cable car my son was glad it wasn’t working !
The forts main function other than strategic defence seems to have been as a prison
Of which there is much evidence
And lots in interesting information in the museums. Strange yo and this does vary across Belgium none of the exhibits or info was in English ! And due to the thickness of the walls google translate wouldn’t work, we enjoyed it all the same as well as a lovely lunch down in the town square.

Our next stop was Ligny, it being a Monday we knew the museum wouldn’t be open but we parked up outside as it is a good spot to park when walking around the village. Just as the kettle was boiling a gentleman knocked on the window, I thought he was going to tell us to move on as the museum was closed…..instead he explained he was the owner of the museum and would love to open it just for us ๐Ÿ˜€๐Ÿ˜€๐Ÿ˜€ this lovely bit of luck easily made up for the parking ticket I got in Maastricht the day before.
It is relatively small museum but has a host of interesting artefacts, some from the battlefield others collected elsewhere, far too many to show photos of.
Some interesting bills of payment for putting up the French army the night before the battle
The obligatory Shako
I snapped this one having just painted them, one wonders what takes this brass plate could tell ?
I will be honest I had to do some reading before we visited Ligny not knowing the battle that well. Several sites can be seen in the village, although I understand the ferocity of the fighting was such that much of the village burned down.
One of the two surviving farms in the village so characteristic of this part of Belgium.
With a nice plaque outside. Sadly the buildings are in a poor states of repair and won’t last for ever unless there is some sort of investment
The church is a prominent feature, I’m not sure if or how much this was damaged during the fighting
After the short walk about the village we jumped in the van and toured the wider battle field, the village of Fleurus with the well visited Battle Plaque and the remains of the windmill used by Napoleon as his st during the battle.
We then went to Saint-Amand
A view looking SE from the higher ground of the Prussian Army
Couldn’t resist snapping this picture as you drive back into Ligny 
Other visiting be aware the museum is also a micro brewery and as the owner has been so kind to open it we felt obliged to purchase several bottles of Ligny Blonde to wash our evening meal down….yum
Our final morning and we headed to Waterloo, although I have been a couple of times before we had two main objectives the museum is been completely rebuilt and upgraded and Hougoumont has now been opened to visitors which was the case on our last visit. As befits such a battle they have an excellent diorama of the battle.
The museum has some interesting stuff although I actually found the little Ligny museum more interesting
A lot of the new museum has been given over to this large life size displays of uniforms. Depicting many of the soldiers which were present. The vast majority of this is modern reproductions. We were also slightly disappointed that the museum has chosen to lean very heavily on technology again nothing is in English and the only way to access is via various apps etc which you have to download…..these actually didn’t work very well.
However, I just couldn’t get bored of visiting Waterloo
We wandered down to Hougoumont, they have spent a lot of money cleaning it up
Some parts are still occupied
But you can get a real feel for the place, the chapel above was the only part of the Chateau to survive the fires of the battle.
The barns are of course very characteristic
As is the surrounding wall, looking from a French point of view 
Finally then a wider view from the Lion Mount across perhaps the most famous battlefield ? Well certainly in Europe.

So there we have it a wonderful week of military history for us both, sharing many memories and learning a lot too. The highlight for both of us was Eban-Emael. Where next, well a trip to the Ardennes seems a likely option. Anybody else visiting after any advice please give me a shout although I can only give you my own biased view.

Thanks as always Matt
 

29 comments:

  1. Thanks Matt, I have been reading up on Ligny over the weekend, with particular interest in St. Amand. There was a good bit of rye being grown then and apparently it grew to man height!

    There is a story (fact) from Quatre Bras of Infantry in a rye field suddenly being fallen on enemy cavalry, caught by surprise because the could not see over / through the rye.

    The museum guy sounds a thoroughly decent bloke opening up on his day off.

    The Waterloo diorama is magnificent.

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    1. Thanks Norm, certainly modern variants of crops are much shorter presumably to increase yield etc..

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  2. An interesting few days there Matt, thanks for the pictures as always.

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    1. Thanks David we certainly enjoyed ourselves over the holiday

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  3. I know only a tiny bit about Ligny but would love to visit both that museum and the Waterloo one. Wow what a trip!

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    1. Certainly worth a visit, Waterloo is quite busy and commercial Ligny on the other hand is not.

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  4. Well that was fantastic, do love a friendly, beer selling museum owner

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  5. Another great review of your trip Matt and thanks for sharing some photos as always:). Love the Waterloo display and nice of that chap to open up the museum for you.

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    1. Thanks Steve next post will be miniatures ๐Ÿ‘

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  6. Looks like you've had a cracking trip

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  7. A great summary. That was very nice of the curator at Ligny to open up the museum for the two of you. Belgian beers are my favourite and that Ligny Blonde looks like it would be terrific.

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    1. Lawrence the beer went down very nicely indeed ๐Ÿ‘

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  8. Another splendid entry, very engaging Matt, thank you for sharing your travels with us.

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    1. Thanks Phil ……..hopefully more not too long away

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  9. Excellent! I enjoyed every photo of your travels, Matt, especially the Waterloo diorama. Too bad that much of the descriptions were not in English.

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    1. Jonathan, As I regrettably don’t speak French (they are our closest neighbour) I have an App on my iPad ‘GOOGLE TRANSLATE’, you point the camera at the text and a translation comes out on the screen. When reading the French Vae Victis magazine, I use it and take a screen shot of the page and then just browse my various screen shots.

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    2. Thanks Jon glad you enjoyed our tour, obviously many many interesting things for those with a love of Military history. Norm we found the translator very useful in Belgium and Netherlands. Both me and my son have a moderate grasp of basic French but Dutch and Belgium a complete mystery, we really only struggled at Huy as you need the internet for it to work and the walls are about 5 feet thick !

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  10. A great trip ending - a Waterloo campaign revisit is in my head at the moment so nice to see what you found this time . I had a similar museum opening experience in Germany many years ago at Jena-Auerstadt.

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    1. Always worth a visit to Belgium ๐Ÿ‘ interestingly I have been looking at some of the Germany battlefields ๐Ÿ‘

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  11. Beautiful summer days, a battlefield tour of the two sites, and the company of your son. Does seem a trip to remember. Even if it needs translation. :-)

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  12. Yeah, looked like a great trip Matt - sadly I doubt I will be in need of any advice on a tour of my own - in the event we manage another trip back to the UK/Europe, I am positive I would be unable to convince my wife that a visit to a few fields and old building is rural Belgium was a good use of a day of our holiday! I need to win Lotto and go myself while she does something else!

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    1. I would start buying those lotto tickets ๐Ÿ™‚

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  13. Again, some really cool photos. I cannot believe your luck that the guy just opened the museum for you! ๐Ÿ˜

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  14. That's a great post and it looked like you two lads had a great time!
    I especially appreciate your visit to Ligny as I haven't been able to get to it, though we have been to Waterloo three times May and June 2015 (200th anniversary) and 2018. It's a long from Australia. You should also check out my wargaming blog if you want some ready-made scenarios as I see we game a lot of the same periods. https://wargamescenarios.blogspot.com/
    Cheers

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